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On Tuesday, August 20, our friends Wolfgang and Christeen returned for
another visit. We had a lovely dinner out in Port Douglas before setting off on
Wednesday bound for Agincourt Reef. The winds were very light at 5-8 knots and
we were only able to make 4-5 knots, so we changed our plans anchored at Tongue Reef in time for
some snorkeling. Ron and Bradley caught dinner - two coral trout and some kind
of perch. All were great on the grill! Bradley won the opening night round of
Hearts with a dramatic come from behind shoot-the-moon on the very last hand.
Thursday morning was gray and rainy. We set off bound for St. Crispin Reef
and had a nice sail there. Bradley and Wolfgang both caught beautiful mackerels
off the boat on the way. We arrived in time for some very nice snorkeling
in fairly shallow water. It was low tide so we were anxious to return the next
day at high tide where we would have room to swim over the top of the reefs. The
coral was varied and spectacular and there were many, many varieties of fish. We
ate Wolfgang's mackerel cooked on the grill and then Wolfgang won the seconds
hearts tournament.
Friday we got up early and went to the outside of the reef for some
snorkeling. It was nice, but there was quite a bit of surf and a little current.
I saw a beautiful turtle but nobody else did. I think I got a picture though. (I
can't wait until they have good underwater dive cameras so you don't have to
wait to get back to land and get your film developed!). Then we came back inside
the reef to continue snorkeling and had a wonderful time. Bradley nabbed a
honeycomb cod - the first of them we've caught. Back at the boat everyone
relaxed for the rest of the day. I made some ANZAC biscuits - the first dozen
barely made it out of the oven before being devoured! In the afternoon Christeen
and I went for a short snorkel while the guys all continued relaxing.
Saturday morning we were headed to Ruby Reef, about 20 miles north. It looked
like a great day for sailing. But our departure was delayed when we had some
trouble raising the anchor. It had tangled itself around some coral and nothing
we could do would shake it free. Ron went into the water with his snorkel gear
and tried to direct us to drive the boat around to untangle it but to no avail.
Finally he had to don his dive gear, attach a line to the anchor beneath the
point it was caught, put tension on that line to create slack in the chain, and
untangle it. Finally we were successful and got underway. It was a perfect day
for sailing. It was Christeen's turn to catch a fish and after two false alarms
she finally landed the largest mackerel yet - a hefty 12 pounder.
We arrived at Ruby Reef in the early afternoon and set off in the dinghy for
a snorkel. We've had some spectacular snorkeling before but nothing to compare
to this. This is without a doubt the best snorkeling we have found yet. The
coral is not only beautiful, it has valleys and canyons you can swim through -
much like a maze. At every turn is something interesting - an incredible variety
of fish life. Christeen and I were still going strong after an hour when Bradley
went back to check the anchor. He determined that we needed to move the boat
because the anchor was not properly set. So reluctantly we got out of the water
and got to work. Again the anchor was stuck but we were able to free it by
maneuvering the boat. We selected another spot and dropped it, but then decided
it was too close to the reef so we had to move yet again. Finally we found the
right spot and got the anchor well set so we could sleep soundly! We ate
Christeens' mackerel and Bradley's honeycomb cod for dinner and they were
excellent. Finally it was my turn to win the hearts tournament!
On Sunday morning, we set off for a snorkel wondering what could possibly top
yesterday's. Soon we learned the answer. There was a fishing boat anchored
behind us which dispatches several small dinghy's to hand fish for coral trout
which they collect over several weeks and export live to Asia. One of the small
dinghy's waved us over and pointed out a large pod of dolphins playing near his
dinghy. Soon they were playing with ours too - they just love to swim and jump
and dive in the bow wake. There were dozens of them! After playing a little we
stopped to get in the water with them. It was just incredible. We could clearly
hear their dolphin chatter and though they were a little wary of us when we were
in the water, they still hung around for a good while. It was a great start.
Finally they moved on and we set off to snorkel. Again, it was very spectacular.
We saw tons of fish and even a turtle. We spent two hours in the water before
heading back for some lunch and naps.
In the afternoon we planned another snorkel trip. As we were getting ready we
saw the dolphins again, cavorting in a nearby bay. We hurried our preparations
and jumped in the dinghy hoping they would wait for us. They did and we were
treated to another romp with them. We would race the dinghy (well, it goes about
10 knots with four people) through the bay and the dolphins would flock to surf
in the bow wake. They would jump and dive and seemed to be having as much fun as
we were. Christeen and I were lying flat on the pontoons and could almost touch
them. What a day. The snorkel that followed was just as good as the others with a
friendly reef shark, another turtle, several nice large fish, and a huge variety
of coral and smaller fish. They guys didn't get any fish but we all had a great
time. We finished two hearts tournaments - I got my second win as did Bradley.
I've now finished first twice and last twice - seems like it's all or nothing
for me!
Monday morning we set sail back to Low Island. It was a lovely sail with
20-25 knot winds most of the way and a few showers mixed in with some sunshine.
We arrived Low Isle in the afternoon and were happy to find that there are now
moorings installed in the harbor. That means we only have to tie up to a
mooring rather than anchor. We went ashore for a look around Low Island.
We met the marine service ranger who lives on the island and she told us the
moorings were just installed the day before and we were the first boat to use
them. After a nice dinner, Wolfgang evened the score in hearts with his
second win. Christeen had a great shoot-the-moon hand too.
Tuesday morning we headed back into Port Douglas where Wolfgang and Christeen
had massages and we spent the day running various errands and checking emails.
After a final dinner on board Wolfgang won the hearts championship with his
second win in a row. Wednesday morning we said goodbye to Wolfgang and
Christeen who had to head back to Melbourne before returning home. We spent the
rest of the day doing laundry, provisioning for our next trip out, and shopping
in Port Douglas.